On the bike once around Lake Constance

The tour starts in Radolfzell, the first town on the lake when you come from the west. The train pulls into platform six and you’re already standing on the lake shore.

The old town is on the other side of the train station, because the city fathers of the 19th century really wanted to see the railways directly on the lake: they had a vineyard dug up and the site for the train station filled up.

What was all the rage back then is now a disadvantage when it comes to marketing given the obstructed view of the lake, but it is a plus for all cyclists who come by train: you can explore the medieval streets, visit the cathedral and have a coffee on the market square drink – or just cycle directly to the Mettnau peninsula, where two lidos await.

After checking everything out, head north out of town. At Stahringen, a wide view opens up over gentle hills and apple orchards to Überlinger See, as the north-western part of Lake Constance is called.

At the end lies Bodman, the first destination of the tour. The lake also got its name from here. From the Middle Ages it was called, at least in German-speaking countries, after the imperial palace in Bodman – and Lake Bodman became Lake Constance.

In the early season there is still space on the cycle path

The bike runs quickly in the direction of Überlingen. Legendary frescoes can be admired at the entrance to the new Überlinger Uferpark. Created for the state horticultural show two years ago, it is now a free delight.

It’s a cloudy day in the pre-season, when there’s room for everyone on the cycle path: it will be full especially during the summer holidays, which start in Bavaria and Baden-Württemberg in 2023 at the end of July.

Überlingen with its gothic cathedral, the lovingly planted gardens and the promenade is worth an overnight stay. The clever people of Überlinger had the train station set behind the old town and lower down so that – unlike in Radolfzell – their view of the lake remained unobstructed.

The oldest open-air museum

The next morning we go past quiet marinas and the baroque church of Birnau Pfahlbaumuseum in Unteruhldingen. It was one hundred years old in 2022, the oldest open-air museum in Germany.

Bored teenagers shuffle towards the museum, three school classes will be guests this morning. Nevertheless, Prof. Gunter Schöbel, Director since 1994, takes the time to talk. He emphasizes the historical dimension of the finds: the pile dwellings have been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 2011, and 111 sites in six Alpine countries have received the coveted title.

Original finds can be found in the museum and reconstructions in the open air. 23 buildings show different house types. Life in the Stone and Bronze Ages is demonstrated in the huts.

Lake Constance was a coveted place to live early on, with its mild climate and rich fish stocks. The transport of goods over the water with sailing shops was much more comfortable than over land. Wood from the Bregenzerwald went to the winegrowers in Meersburg, grain from Swabia to Appenzell. Always across the lake, which could be life-threatening in the event of fast-moving thunderstorms: a number of barges disappeared with man, mouse and cargo in the floods.

Black wall and painted sunset

A dark wall is piling up in front of the Bregenz mountains on this day. With the regular boat from Hagnau to Friedrichshafen you should just escape it, that’s how we calculate. The route along the main road is one of the less attractive sections of the cycle path anyway.

But the last stop stretched out with tarte flambée and a glass of white wine Rebgut Haltnau at Meersburg probably too long – in any case, the ship sails without us.

And so we cycle to Friedrichshafen and from there continue towards the wall, which is becoming increasingly black. Last dramatic photos on Schloss Montfort in Langenargen. Then: Big drops, gusty winds, at least no lightning. The jeans stick to your legs and it becomes uncomfortable. We are accordingly happy to arrive at the hotel.

Wasserburg is already in Bavaria. From here it is worth planning plenty of time in addition to cycling. For example for the Lindenhofpark, where there is an exclusive seaside resort. Or for Lindau with its Hinteren Insel, also a garden showland from 2021.

Now follows the most beautiful part of the Lake Constance cycle path: out of Lindau, across the border to Austria, from Lochau to Bregenz. The path is wide and open to the lake, free footbridges and bathing stairs abound. On the green strip between the cycle path and the main road, people bathing and working outdoors lie down with their laptops.

Squeezed in Switzerland

The next day you think you are in a Venetian lagoon: the extensive Rhine delta, swampy and with a number of ponds, is a nature reserve. A stork on approach for landing sails just overhead and wagtails cross the gravel path on the embankment.

The most beautiful section of the trail in Vorarlberg is followed by the ugliest, right after the cycle bridge to Switzerland. Behind the noise barrier to the motorway, the cycle path leads along a ditch, bordered on the right by a thick fence.

The fence manufacturers have to earn a living in Switzerland: the cycle path has been efficiently fenced in, and it’s squeezed in between tracks, fields or private gardens. Again and again he crosses the rails, from the lake you can rarely catch a glimpse.

An overnight stay in the venerable community of Arbon is a must, as the Romans already built a fort here. It is wonderful in the “Wunderbar”, the earlier one sour-Works canteen with lake view.

On the last day, it goes along the Swiss lake shore to Constance. The Seehas, the regional S-Bahn, bridges the final twenty kilometers back to the start in Radolfzell. You can treat yourself to so much luxury at the end of the day. After all, the speedometer shows 177 kilometers.

Service

(dpa)

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