Getting a job in the fashion industry without practicing, describes Alison Lilja-Cosson as “impossible”. After completing her internship at Acne, she got a job.
– My duties did not change when I was hired. They were exactly the same, only that I got paid, she says.
The lawyer: “Then you should pay”
The European Parliament and the European trade union movement want to see a ban on unpaid internships. In Sweden, there is no law that regulates compensation. But there is a limit – an intern may never replace an employee.
– If you do regular tasks, you replace someone else. Then you will have a salary. Then you can no longer work for free, says Lise-Lotte Argulander, the Employers’ labor law expert.
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Mission review contacted 20 Swedish fashion companies and asked how many interns they accept. Only seven responded and Acne Studio’s answer stood out. At the time of the response in November 2022, they had 220 employees and 43 trainees.
“Working for free”
According to what is called “good practice in the Swedish labor market”, internships must take place in collaboration with either a school or the employment agency. But Alison Lilja-Cosson, and several others Mission review has been in contact with, practiced at Acne without any such connection. To practice was to “be a slave,” says Alison.
– You work for free. They are ‘busy’ with planning and the assistant does everything else. That’s what I did as an intern.
“Olivia”, who practiced for six months at Acne, wishes to remain anonymous. She felt that the interns were given time-consuming tasks that the regular employees did not have time for.
– For example, package samples to be sent back and forth to factories, or to stores. Then also stand and measure samples.
Acne stops accepting interns
Acne Studios does not want to participate in any interview. Ten days after Assignment Review contacts them, they remove all their internship ads. Acne writes in a response that from January 2023 they will no longer accept interns. Instead, they must offer an apprenticeship program, i.e. six-month fixed-term employment with a compensation of 15 to 18 thousand kroner per month. In the program there must be equal parts work and practical training.
Philip Warkander, PhD in fashion science, sees the financial compensation positively. But sees a downside with an apprenticeship program that is not linked to a training coordinator, who can control the learning objectives.
– Who does a dissatisfied apprentice turn to? There must be someone external at the bottom of the program.
See the entire report “The trainees” in SVT Play.
