Bulgarian citizens are divided between their European dream and their Russian nostalgia… The country is plagued by corruption, weakened by political instability. A boulevard for the Kremlin and its war of influence.
By Véronique Lamquin
Special Envoy to Varna (Bulgaria)
Phave a soul at Shisha Heaven, a sold-out counter at the Retro Club Cabaret, a cool welcome at the menthol Beach Bar… On this chilly Sunday in February, Varna no longer has anything of this “city that never sleeps”. The barrier of “enchanting” hotel complexes, with a view of the Black Sea, no longer tries to hide its cracked concrete or its cracked swimming pools. It’s winter, the economic crisis, especially the war. The Russians no longer come, the others less. And the Ukrainians, for a time taking refuge in the largest seaside resort in Bulgaria, have left. There remain the cats, neither shy nor starving, who reign as pashas, from the beach to the Roman baths. A few inhabitants on a digestive stroll on the boulevard George Georgiev, wedged between the Maritime Garden and the palaces at best asleep, at worst bankrupt.
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