Indestructible, even inheritable. Some old trousers from the cult brand Levi’s have even become an investment. 150 years ago, the solid fabric on the legs became a global brand that tells countless side stories.
Some of them are sad, others amazing. What became of the most famous washing machine model? Who died in their jeans? And what difference does the little red tab on the right butt cheek actually make?
Anyone who wears jeans knows the world logo of the Californian brand Levi’s
The name: In the USA, the cult jeans are almost never colloquially called “Levi’s”. There the jeans are called “Five-O-One”.
The leather logo: The two horses trying to tear a pair of jeans, placed above the right back pocket, was designed around 1886 to demonstrate the pants’ indestructibility.
Only genuine with the leather patch: the famous label that no Levi’s should be without
The red tab: Sewn in right back pocket since 1930s to distinguish pants from fakes. Up until the 1950s, the name “LEVI’S” was written in capital letters only on the outside of the tongue. Since the 70s the name has been on both sides, the “e” has been lowercase. Some collections can have the label in colors such as orange or white, among others.
From 1848, tens of thousands of soldiers of fortune came to California for the great gold rush. In the years to come, many of them needed sturdy clothing
The payment: The three-digit number on the left of the leather label indicates the cut. There are more than 20 different model numbers. Very popular after the “501”: the “507” with a slight flare (“bootcut” for a better fit with boots). The “W” on the leather label stands for the waist size, the “L” for the leg length. Sizes are given in inches. An inch is almost 2.5 centimeters.
The K question: Buttons or zipper? For many Levi’s fans in Germany, this was still a decisive purchase criterion in the 80s and 90s. Jeans in this country were almost exclusively with zippers. If you had a pair of Levi’s with buttons, you were simply cooler in the schoolyard for a hefty price.
Real 501s often cost up to 150 German marks (around 80 euros).
Company founder Levi Strauss: The German immigrant developed the robust trousers for gold diggers, among other things. Cowboys in the USA also put on his pants
Success: The Levi’s empire is still largely owned by the descendants of four nephews of founder Levi Strauss (died at 73, born Löb Strauss). The company (annual turnover around 6 billion euros, almost 16,000 employees) has been back on the stock exchange since 2019. Share value currently: around 16 euros per share certificate. The empire is led by CEO Chip Bergh (65). He wears jeans, of course.
Chip Bergh runs the Levi’s empire, bringing the company back to the stock market in 2019
Legends and Drama: Brit Nick Kamen († 59) became famous in 1985 with a commercial in a laundromat in which he took off his jeans. To this day, the commercial is considered the starting signal for the extremely popular clips about the jeans brand, which always capture special and surprising moments to the music. Lying in a bathtub with pants – to better fit the legs – became legendary with the short films.
Comes to the laundromat and takes off his jeans in front of the drum: The commercial with Nick Kamen became a cult in 1985
Kamen initially benefited very well from its popularity. He celebrated great success as a singer with hits like “I Promised Myself”. Then the drama about his health: Kamen died of bone cancer in 2021.
Grunge legend Kurt Cobain († 27) shot himself in Levi’s jeans in 1994. James Dean († 24) died in 1955 in an accident in his 501st class.
Had great success as a model and later as a musician: Nick Kamen died in 2021
Bags: The “five pockets” of the original jeans were reinforced with copper rivets from horse harness. The small mini pocket (on the right) was originally intended for a pocket watch on a strap, but is still part of the pants’ patent.
Music: The commercials in swimming pools, bathtubs and laundromats mostly featured classics from the 50s, 60s and 70s. Three CD and vinyl best-off albums stormed the charts between 1991 and 1993. Among others with evergreens like “Stand by me”, “When a man loves a woman” or “The joker”.
Now relies on leather on the legs. There’s a good reason for that, too, as guitar god Slash from Guns ‘n’ Roses revealed
Backed out: Celebrities around the world are wearing jeans. Millions of Normalos wore the 501 as a matter of principle, even if the narrow tube didn’t allow it at all due to their own physique. But the cult pants also lost fans over the years. Including Guns’n’Roses guitarist Slash.
When his rock career took off, he was still wearing jeans, which were extremely cheap in the USA (often under $30). He later switched to leather pants (made to order for $3,000).
He says: “I liked to wear jeans. Why leather now? It’s just more forgiving when you pee your pants.”
Good old jeans have had their day at Slash. He now wears leather at performances and privately
