In the year 2000, Naomi Klein wrote the book No Logo which explores the growing influence of brands in contemporary culture and how they have come to dominate the global economic landscape. The author herself critically examined the tactics used by companies to build their brands and how these strategies affect consumers, workers, and the environment. In Klein’s text, she was especially critical of the role of business in globalization and its impact on labor exploitation and economic inequality. In the world of fashion, the best example of the weight of a brand is Abercrombie & Fitch, the same year that Klein published her book, the clothing brand enjoyed one of its best moments. The 2008 economic crisis ended the good times, in 2016 it was considered the most hated brand by Americans.
Interestingly, in the midst of a new global economic downturn, consumers are turning away from flashy brands and visible luxury. Quiet Luxury has become the big buzzword among consumers globally, according to Google Trends the term is especially popular in New Zealand and Poland. The effect is largely tied to the HBO series Succession, in which a wealthy family demonstrates immaculate but unbranded clothing. The main beneficiary is Loro Piana, one of the most important “discreet” luxury brands in the world. This brand promotes the slogan “when you know, you know”, or “when you know, you know”. An ode to the elitist idiosyncrasy, that is to say “only among ourselves we know what is good”.
The Quiet Luxury concept is a demonstration that marketing can turn the most innocuous object into a luxury delivery. The products used by the Succession characters considered Quiet Luxury are of basic patterns, primary colors, it could be said that they are almost discreet. During the most recent Fashion Week the main designers of the industry shared the same idea. In their press releases, the designers mentioned going back to basics for fall 2023. In Milan, Prada spoke of an exchange “between the familiar and the exceptional.” In Courrèges, Nicolas di Felice explained about the “archetypes of daywear” and the “inner workings of (the brand’s) ever-evolving wardrobe”. Even Demna, in his first Balenciaga show since the brand was embroiled in controversy last fall, said in a summary: “For me, fashion can no longer be seen as entertainment, but rather as the art of making clothes.” . The Quiet Luxury is much more than discreet luxury, it promotes the message that the best armor is camouflage. Shiv’s character (daughter of the show’s patriarch) often wears white Frame brand tops that sell for $400. The same brand sells T-shirts for $150.
The phenomenon is interesting, it illustrates a change in image culture. It is likely associated with the economic crisis -as happened with A&F- Probably the wealthy consumer does not want to attract attention, but it is more likely that fashion brands want to participate in a global phenomenon of simplifying Generation Z and Millennials. These are not looking to impress neighbors with huge logos on their caps and sweatshirts. Ironically, the fashion was not created by the upper classes. The years following the Revolution in France in 1789 brought enormous changes in dress and fashion. Clothing had long served in France as one of the most visible markers of social privilege. Following the storming of the Bastille on July 14, 1789, the city government of Paris decreed that all citizens of the capital must wear a tricolor cocarde, a round emblem made of ribbons displaying the city’s colors of red and blue, as well as the white of the royal standard.
Fashion has always been the vehicle for equalizing status, at least visually. This explains the hacking obsession with replicating bags with logos. Curiously, there are few copied models that do not include some kind of logo, what use would a pirate Goyard bag be if it did not have a logo to copy. Piracy succumbs in a world of generic products. Sure, we’re not talking about quality, I’m sure a thousand dollar Loro Piana shoes are built with better materials than a generic market version on wheels. However, visibly to the consumer they are the same.
This change in the relationship between brands and consumers could be part of a larger current of anti-capitalism, however, the status associated with purchasing power is something that seduces everyone. The image of open spaces, New York apartments and helicopter rides appeal to even the most stoic of consumers. The best sample is on Instagram and Tik Tok, in which super cars hold their hand over classic cars. But the wealthiest will continue to be represented under the stereotype of old money or old money, which actually refers to “trans-generational wealth.” To sample the 1956 Jaguar XK140 from the movie Cruel Intentions.
