MILAN.- The new artistic directors of Tod’s and Moschino took their first steps on Friday at Fashion Week. Moda from Milan with its Women’s collections for autumn-winter 2024-2025.
Tod’s chose a tram depot for the debut of Matteo Tamburini, who presented models in elegant, luxurious and travel-friendly suits, accompanied by leather bags with impressive zippers.
The stylist, who until now had been responsible for ready-to-wear at Bottega Veneta, is one of the three new artistic directors who debuted at Italian brands this week, along with the Argentine Adrián Appiolaza at Moschino and Walter Chiapponi at Blumarine.
The Tod’s show was one of the most anticipated of the week, in part thanks to the brand ambassador, Chinese singer and actor Xiao Zhan.
Under warm yellow lights, parade guests received heating pads to combat the cold, while admiring sophisticated gray pants, leather belted blouses and jackets, and other more classic pants that gave a feeling of comfort.
Since Tod’s has its roots in the shoe, Tamburini revisited the brand’s classic Gommino loafer, but gave it a modern twist by adding red leather fringes to the front.
Sophisticated and modern, the collection seems made for fashionistas who will never have to run to catch a train.
“The marketing and design teams” chose the right place, Diego Della Valle, president of the Tod’s group, told AFP at the end of the parade.
At the beginning of the month, Tod’s announced the entry into its capital of the investment fund L Catterton, supported by the luxury giant LVMH, with the Della Valle family as the majority shareholder.
Cavalli abandons animal prints
While animal prints are part of Italian fashion house Roberto Cavalli’s DNA, stylist Fausto Puglisi was inspired by marble for his new collection, a new twist for the brand.
The brand’s signature leopard, cheetah, zebra and python prints are gone.
Puglisi transformed these complex motifs into marble-effect veins in shades of grey, beige, white, green, mustard yellow and amethyst. “He was tired of animal print,” he admitted backstage after the show.
He explained being inspired by his personal collection of antique marble.
“I love it madly,” said the Sicilian stylist of the colored marble found throughout Italy, whether in the villas of Pompeii or the baroque churches of Rome.
At Max Mara, artistic director Ian Griffiths opened the show on Thursday with the classic long wool coat.
In a collection inspired by the French writer Colette, Griffiths gave sensual volume to the back of the jackets, transforming them into elegant “Bombers”, with decorative darts at the hem that provided a touch of lightness.
Source: AFP
