If you look at Neukölln alone, you might get the idea that the city is approaching a certain saturation with wine bistros with strong gulps. But if you take a step back and look, say, from little Bordeaux to big Berlin, things look quite different.
And suddenly you are completely sure again: There are still many undiscovered ways in which food and drinks can find each other in an informal way.
A wine bar also wants to be understood as an alternative to the supermarket mentality
The “Sacrebleu!” not far from Hermannstraße gently sucks its guests past the counter into a narrow dining room with dark marble tables, on which glasses and plates glow as if from within. What is served is not necessarily what you had looked for. Printed cards quickly lose their meaningfulness if the sole chef has not received all the ingredients and the sommelier is juggling with the remaining bottles before the next wine delivery.
A wine bar also wants as Alternative to the supermarket mentality understood, and a certain flexibility increases the chances of a successful evening.
Alexandre Fleck, who comes from Paris and who, among other things, stocked the wine range of the “Fish Club” in Berlin and worked in the natural wine trade, is the master of the bottles in “Sacrebleu!”. For him, a wine is all the better the less technical intervention it has undergone.
This leads to an amazingly harmonious wine list, the route of which leads from the Palatinate via the Loire to Georgia and not only takes natural wine freaks with it. There are also some very fairly priced bottles on the menu, individual glasses range between 8 euros for a medium-weight red from Provence and 12 euros for champagne.
Wine enhances what is on the plate
Here, the sommelier sees himself as the guardian of the best wine pairings with meals. And that’s not easy at all. Ahmed Omer Ahmed, most recently in the “Tisk” at the stove, tries in “Sacrebleu!” a fusion of French bistro abundance and Japanese umami kick.
His fried enoki mushrooms with teriyaki truffle sauce and squirts of tahini disappear behind a wall of salt that no wine can penetrate. The glazed carrots, which are beautiful to look at, have been stewed in miso for too long, lose their bite and above all taste malty-sweet, which makes every dry sip seem sour.
The shimeji mushroom heads on the steak tartare have no flavor of their own, the beef is smothered in a ketchup-tinged sauce and is further pressured by mayonnaise on the grilled side of the bread. The boeuf bourguignon would have appreciated the classic attention of braising ingredients for varying lengths of time to preserve flavor and texture (plate 6 to 17 euros).
The search for pure wine enjoyment calls for a kitchen that does not shy away from clarity. In “Sacrebleu!” she can learn from the winegrowers how to leave things out and adapt faster than them. You only make wine once a year, you can start anew every day at the stove.
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