Unique metropolis : Much better than its reputation: 72 hours in Mexico City

Splendor and history, pomp and palaces, wild architecture, an internationally celebrated gastronomic scene, high and low culture. Mexico City is considered too big, too dirty, possibly dangerous. It has everything that makes a world metropolis.

It is best to spend at least a whole week in this city. And if there is not enough time on a Mexico tour? Then here comes a compact program for three days.

Day one: The Centro Histórico – where it all began

Tour guide and architecture connoisseur Santiago Garcia de Vinuesa recommends starting your exploration of Mexico City in the historic center. At the Zócalo, the huge main square, lies the birthplace of the capital: Tenochtitlán, the former capital of the Aztec empire, whose remains lie inconspicuous today. The ruins of the Templo Mayor are outshone here by the largest cathedral in the Americas, once a symbol of the imperial power of the Spanish conquerors.

Until the middle of the 19th century, today’s historical center basically covered the whole city. “That’s why there are so many hidden gems and buildings from all eras here,” says Santiago during a foray into the area. “It’s a busy neighborhood because everyone comes here to shop. But it’s also very real.”

In moments of overwhelm, it is best to keep an eye out for archways that lead to the inner courtyards of noble colonial palaces – and there, for example, to the restaurant Azul Historico (Isabel La Católica 30) by the renowned chef Ricardo Muñoz Zurita.

When Mexico City wanted to be European

Heading west one passes a number of imposing monuments that were built towards the end of the 19th century – after independence, under the reign of General Porfirio Díaz. At that time, the upper class oriented itself towards France. Magnificent Art Nouveau buildings arose, such as the Palacio de Hierro – an upscale shopping center – and the posh Gran Hotel Ciudad de Mexico with its colorful Tiffany glass roof.

The Palacio Postal, the old main post office, is reminiscent of a Venetian palace. And the cultural center Palacio de Bellas Artes shows a wild mix of architectural styles, from Neoclassicism to Art Nouveau to Art Deco – typical of Mexico City.

Mexico City’s architecture blends so many different styles because the city’s leaders drew on so many influences, Santiago says. They wanted to make the city more European. They were inspired by the lifestyle of American suburbs. But they also looked to the pre-Columbian past for identity. “All while trying to be modern and cosmopolitan.”

Bar hopping and partying in the Zona Rosa

Those who are not tired in the evening should head to the trendy Roma district for at least one drink. There, a mezcal cocktail with smoky pineapple is recommended at the Licorería Limantour, which is on the List of the 50 best bars in the world ranked fourth in 2022.

Then it’s time to dance in the Zona Rosa, a party district and a magnet for the LGBTQ community. There are many gay bars and clubs here. During the day, the art galleries in the neighborhood beckon. Antique shops feature stone lions, paintings of Jesus, mahogany bureaux inlaid with gold and Louis XIV-style chairs. Admittedly, nothing for hand luggage.

Day two: art, culture and curiosities

Where the traveler remembers something familiar in a foreign country, he feels he has been picked up right away. No wonder the Roma and Condesa neighborhoods draw so many visitors with their brunch spots, boutiques, and gracefully rocked facades. You think you are in Rome or Barcelona, ​​at least somewhere in Europe. Both quarters are completely upgraded and very expensive by Mexican standards.

A lunch recommendation is the fish restaurant contramar (200 Calle de Durango). Another address that is often recommended is the Mercado Roma (C. Querétaro 225). However, the hall with a food market (tacos, paella, ceviche, vegan Italian snacks and smoothies) could be in almost any hipster district from Bushwick to Kreuzberg, which basically makes them interchangeable.

Museum hopping around Chapultepec Park

Not far away is the large city park of Chapultepec. Anyone who avoids the promenade with the hawkers will find peace and quiet on lonely walks. Fountains splash, a horse carousel stands still, squirrels hop up trees. A worker sleeps in a wheelbarrow. The car noise is pleasantly distant.

However, the area is too interesting for lounging around. There are several cultural highlights around the park, above all the imposing one National Museum of Anthropology (National Museum of Anthropology). The museums are also worth seeing modern and contemporary Art (Museo de Arte Moderno and Museo Tamayo) and the Casa Barraganformer studio of the architect Luis Barragán.

That Castle of Chapultepec passed as a curiosity. Built by the Spanish colonial rulers, Maximilian I Palace served as the imperial residence from 1864. The Austrian, in turn, was used as a puppet regent by the French, who were interfering in Mexico’s internal affairs. And killed three years later. Today there is a historical museum in the castle.

Looking for the best street food

Evening street food tour: Guide Clarissa Obregón estimates that the majority of Mexicans eat on the streets. Most work six days a week, time is short. “That’s why we need good street food.” And you can find that on every corner in Mexico City.

Let’s start in Condesa with tortas de cochinita pibil, sandwiches with stewed pork. Continue towards San Rafael, once a residential area, now middle class: a street vendor who became famous through YouTube makes tacos campechanos with chorizo ​​and beef.

Then off to a gloomy pulqueria, where the national drink, which takes some getting used to, pulque, made from fermented juice, is served in three versions. “We say it makes you sociable and a little bit horny,” says Clarissa. “And it heals broken hearts.” Well then!

The Mercado de San Cosme continues with fried quesadillas, followed by tamales, filled corn dough, and atole, a heavy, hot drink also made from corn. The stomach closes, but you keep eating because it tastes so delicious. Mezcal helps.

Day three: Coyoacán and the Lagoon of Xochimilco

Time for some relaxation on the third day. The rather cozy district of Coyoacán in the south is recommended for this. Tourist magnet there is the cobalt blue Frida Kahlo Museumalso called Casa Azul, the birthplace and place of work of Mexico’s most famous artist.

In the afternoon you can then take a tour through the canals of Xochimilco, once created for agriculture, today a popular destination. Around 1,500 trajineras gondolas past artificial islands. They transport large families, couples and tourists. On the colorful boats people celebrate, drink and cuddle. The deeper you go into the network of waterways, the quieter it gets.

A grotesque highlight is the Isla de las Muñecas, the island of the dolls, which – partly horribly weathered – hang in the trees in dozens. According to legend, a girl drowned here. A fisherman found the body and then repeatedly propelled dolls, which he hung to drive away the dead girl’s spirit.

That sounds scarier than it looks in the end – just like a visit to Mexico City itself.

Mexico City