PARS.- Transparencies, whether silk, organza, tulle or wide openings in clothing, once again prevail in the Fashion Week feminine of Parsbeyond feminist polemics.
According to the specialized fashion site TagWalkthe percentage of transparent parts increased by 40% in the 20 main brands on the market, between 2023 and 2024.
Prada sells a paper-thin skirt like hot cakes, Givenchy has imagined a literally diaphanous white top and Rabanne has created lace-encrusted pants, while Ludovic de Saint Sernin claims to make transparency his signature, with a backless dress that It doesn’t leave much room for mystery.
Fashion Week and trends
These transparencies join other trends already detected in past seasons, such as men’s briefs.
For the independent Spanish brand Paloma Wool, those underwear metamorphose into bodies or en shorts made with mesh, like that used to make basketball jerseys.
“I have always felt very comfortable with transparencies and showing the body, but in an elegant and sophisticated way. And this time we have played a lot with silk and tricot. In the same garment we combined tricot, which covers areas that equally “You prefer to cover up, with super fluid and super transparent silk,” the Catalan designer explained to AFP after her show.
Transparencies, the power of materials is the title of an exhibition at the Yves Saint Laurent museum in Paris, which coincides with Fashion Week.
The current artistic director of YSL, Anthony Vaccarello, presented on Tuesday a collection completely based on this theme, made of silk tulle, similar to the material of stockings, for a very sensual result that aroused controversy.
“Body positive”
“Too many breasts!” the fashion editor of the magazine was outraged. New York TimesVanessa Friedman, who counted only 12 looks 48 with no nipple visible under her clothes, humorously highlighting that the photos from the parade are not suitable for her family diary.
“In 1968, YSL’s first translucent silk blouse had already earned it criticism from puritanical America,” recalls Yves Saint Laurent’s biographer, Laurence Benam, curator of an exhibition on the theme of transparencies at the Center Pompidou in Paris.
And, in 2000, Jennifer López’s transparent dress at the Grammy Awards drove Internet users crazy and fashionistas.
“At this moment in the 21st century, this transparency is simply the most banal misogynistic provocation,” criticized Friedman, denouncing in this pseudo-trend an attempt to objectify women.
But for others, this taste for showing off is a growing trend since the beginning of the century, which goes far beyond fashion, a logical continuation of the movement body positive liberation of women’s bodies.
But controversy accompanies this liberation.
Controversy
This week in Paris, the Australian Bianca Censori, who according to some experts in the world of celebrities dresses in a very sensual way due to the influence of her husband, the rapper Kayne West, appeared again with an outfit that showed off her anatomy: some stockings. transparent without underwear.
So how to wear this trend without getting into trouble?
“It depends on your daily life, but even the option of showing underwear, for most people, is not an option,” said the stylist who collaborates with the magazine CosmopolitanClemence Guillerm.
“To address transparency in a wearable outfit, you can start with a skirt, the simplest, with a short lining or another small skirt underneath,” the style expert suggested.
“For the top, you can try a body opaque, maybe flesh-colored, and a transparent top, with a blazer for those who still don’t dare,” added Clmence Guillerm.
FUENTE: AFP
